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Sewing Lesson: Flounce Skirt #102 11/2016

Time: 2016-11-13 20:59cheongsam dress Click:

Follow this sewing lesson to make our Flounce Skirt sewing pattern that debuted in our Color Flash pattern collection from the November 2016 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this flouncey skirt.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Step 1- Cut pieces 3 and 6 from a double layer of fabric:
Fold the fabric lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 3 and 6 to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout – piece 6 is on the fold. With tailor’s chalk, draw seam allow­ances along the edges of the pattern pieces, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out the fabric pieces along the chalk lines.

Step 2- Cut remaining pieces from a single layer of fabric:
Unfold the remaining fabric and spread it out, with the right fabric side facing up. Pin pattern pieces 1, 2, 4, and 5 to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout – the printed sides of these pattern pieces must be facing up. With tailor’s chalk, draw seam allow­ances along the edges of the pattern pieces, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out the fabric pieces along the chalk lines.

Step 3- Transfer pattern markings to the fabric:
Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a ­tracing wheel to transfer pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and also the dart ­lines, slit marks, and seam marks, to the wrong side of each fabric piece (see manufacturer’s instructions). To mark the slit, make a small clip (5 mm/ 3/16" is sufficient) in the seam allowances on the centre back seam edges of the back skirt ­pieces.

Step 4- Cut pieces from lining fabric:
Trim piece 1 along the centre front (marked “lining” line). Fold lining fabric in half, right side facing in – the ­selvages lie ­together. Pin pattern pieces 1 and 3 to the lining, with piece 1 on the fold. With tailor’s chalk, draw seam allow­ances along the edges of the pattern pieces, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out the fabric pieces along the chalk lines. Transfer pattern outlines, dart lines, and slit marks to the wrong sides of the lining pieces, with dressmaker’s carbon paper.

Step 5- Back darts:
Fold each skirt back piece along the centre of the dart, right side facing in. Pin the dart lines together. Stitch the dart, from the edge to the point. Knot threads at the point of the dart. Press darts toward centre back. Stitch the dart in the left front skirt panel in the same manner. Press this dart toward the centre front.

Step 6- Invisible zipper:
On the right skirt back, pin the open zipper face down on the right fabric side
of the back slit edge, 5 mm (3/16") from the fabric edge. The zipper teeth begin at the marked upper skirt edge. With the special presser foot, stitch the zipper in place, down to the slit mark (clip) – the needle is to the left of the teeth. Pin the second ­zipper tape to the opposite slit edge in the same manner and stitch it in place, from ­the upper edge to the slit mark.

Step 7- Centre back seam:
Close the zipper slightly. Below the zipper, pin the centre back seam closed, turning the loose zipper end out of the way, as ­illustrated. Stitch the seam from the ­lower edge to as close to the lines of zipper stitching as possible. Tie-off the ends of the seam with backstitching. Finish the edges of the seam allowances and press the seam open.

Step 8- Side seams:
Skirt: Lay front skirt pieces on the skirt back, right sides facing. Pin the side seams, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch the side seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.
Flounce: Lay right front and left front flounce pieces on the back flounce piece. Pin the side seams, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch each side seam, ending stitching at the marked seam line on the lower edge (arrows). Tie-off ends of seams. Trim seam allowances to 7 mm (¼") wide, finish edges, and press seams open.

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